Women Write

Australia/New Zealand Travels

This trip had actually been planned for two years. When Terry suffered serious medical complications after surgery for a detached retina last September, we cancelled our initial trip. We decided to make the journey over Christmas and New Years of 2007 and 2008, and after months of planning, we are finally off.

Monday, December 17, 2007
What I really want to do right now is shower. Even in Business Class a 14-hour flight from L.A. is still, well, a 14-hour flight. But, half our luggage is missing. So is the luggage of at least 50 other passengers, and it appears a container was left behind at LAX. Qantas provides $300 in cash, toiletry kits, and many apologies, but the best they can offer is that our bags will be delivered on the Tuesday flight to Brisbane.

Welcome to Brisbane, Australia
Staying downtown on the Brisbane River we stroll the boardwalk lined with gleaming hotels, office towers, and restaurants. We settle on Customs House for lunch, a beautifully restored building of ornate neo-classical architecture. We dine al fresco on wonderful spinach salad and stuffed mushrooms and note a number of holiday parties in progress. After lunch, we board a water taxi, a form of public transit on the river.

Overlooking beautiful Sydney after climbing to the top of the Harbour Bridge.

Aboard the taxi, it’s easy to spot the tourists with our cameras and constant picture taking. The locals tune into their Ipods, chat on cell phones, or read while the cameras click away. The waterfront architecture tends to be a combination of the very modern glass cubist style offering panoramic river views or the more traditional stucco under red-tiled roofs. At the end of the line we spot the Statendam, and it’s quite odd to see a massive ship docked on a river. We’ll board tomorrow and head out to sea.

Next we head to downtown Brisbane, vibrant and bustling with workers and shoppers picking out those last Christmas gifts. We visit three main shopping venues, most notably The Brisbane Arcade. Built in 1923, the elegant interior of polished marble, wood, and stained-glass transport visitors from the rush of the 21st Century, to a quieter and slower pace. After covering several miles downtown, we return to our hotel, and sweeping views of the river and city skylines. In the news, the Australian papers carry front page stories that the slumping U.S. housing market and subprime mortgage debacle is affecting the bottom line of Australian companies who invested with American firms now suffering major financial losses.

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Tuesday, December 18
We’ll depart on our 18-day cruise at midnight. We are still two pieces short of luggage, so we may have to undertake serious shopping to replace lost items if it doesn’t arrive. This cruise will take us down the East Coast of Australia and across the Pacific to New Zealand where we’ll circle the country visiting coastal ports. On board ship we explore our surroundings, getting acquainted with the Statendam. The ship spent two weeks in dry dock being newly refurbished. To our great relief, our misplaced luggage arrives before we sail. We depart the lovely city of Brisbane at midnight, setting course for Sydney.

Thursday, December 20

The Three Sisters at Echo Point

We arrive in Sydney Harbour under cool and cloudy skies. The Statendam is docked adjacent to the renowned Sydney Opera House, which looms over the harbor like so many sails of a tall ship. We are scheduled to tour an area 1 ½ hours outside of Sydney known as the Blue Mountains. As we depart by coach, Peter, our British transplant guide, tells us that last December 20 the temperature in Sydney was a blistering 120 degrees-plus. This year however; the temperature is an unseasonably cool 70 degrees, almost chilly with the gray cloud cover. The history of Sydney is fascinating. The capital of the Australian state New South Wales, Sydney was established in 1788 as a penal colony. Most criminals sent here had committed minor crimes, but colonists were needed on the new continent. With British volunteers apparently few and far between, the convicts were sent to this new land, 12,000 miles from England.

Then it’s on to Echo Point where we take in a view of rock formations among steep verdant valleys, yawning canyons, and cascading waterfalls. With fog descending over the point, we don’t get to experience what would be a dramatic view of the Three Sisters rock formation. As we head to our third stop in the town of Leura, Peter explains that the Blue Mountains are not mountains in the sense of the Rockies or the Alps, but more akin to the Allegheny Mountains with an elevation of less than 3,500 feet. Instead of pine trees, these mountains are predominantly clothed in eucalyptus trees. There are over 700 varieties of eucalyptus and approximately 100 are represented in the Blue Mountains.

The Sydney Opera House at night

Luera is a lovely, quaint town full of shops and restaurants. We only have an hour here to grab a bite for lunch before heading back towards Echo Point to Scenic World. The name sounds hokey, but the real purpose of Scenic World is to preserve the temperate rain forest and wild life. Taking a ride on the world’s steepest perpendicular railway, we plunge 700 feet towards the floor of the valley. There are several options to walk further into the forest and we choose the middle route. By the time we’re ready to catch the cable car to the top, fingers of fog have reached down into the valley obscuring the majority of the valley. Still, it’s a marvelous ride from the floor of the forest back to the top.

Returning to Sydney, we stroll around The Quay (pronounced “key”) towards the Opera House and Botanical Gardens. The clouds are finally lifting and the evening is perfect to walk around the Harbour Area. Tomorrow we’ll experience the Harbour and surrounding Sydney from atop the Harbour Bridge. (Return to Top)

Friday, December 21
There are 12 in our group of bridge climbers hailing from England, Ireland, South Africa, and my hometown of Lincoln, Nebraska giving an indication of just how small the world has become. We are taking the Discovery Climb on which climbers tour the inside of the steel bridge before descending to the top for pictures.

Sidney Harbour with Queen Elizabeth's Australian residence in background

Today the sun has finally come out and even from inside the skeletal structure of the bridge the Harbour view is spectacular. The Opera House sits to our right and the Luna Amusement Park to the left. Scaling catwalks and girders towards the top, the beauty of the harbor fans out in all directions offering a 360 degree panorama of the city from above. Sailboats skim the azure water, lush green islands jut out from the shore, and red-tile roofs dot the horizon for as far as we can see. It is absolutely breathtaking. Our guide David, is a Sydney native, and gives us a great history of the Harbour Bridge. Begun in 1913, the bridge was finally completed in 1932. At over 52,800 tons, this awe-inspiring structure is the largest single-span, steel arch Bridge in the world. At the majestic summit of 134 meters above Sydney Harbour we have pictures taken with the Opera House and city as a glorious backdrop. This is truly a high-point of the trip, and when our 3 ½ hour adventure is over, we’re both ready to climb it again!

The rest of the day we spend enjoying the waterfront area of Sydney. Venturing back to the Opera House there are wonderful shops on the lower level and we’re intent on buying items actually made in Australia. Then we peek into the lush Botanical Gardens for a few more pictures. If we have any regrets, it’s that we didn’t have several more days to spend visiting Sydney.

Sunday, December 23

A resident of the Bird Sanctuary

We sail into Melbourne, Australia’s second largest city, and board a tour bus for the Blue Dandenongs, another mountain region. At 2,000 feet we reach the Mt. Dandenong Observatory where the weather is again foggy and unseasonably cold. Our second stop is the picturesque town of Olinda where we could easily have spent several hours. The last stop is a Bird Refuge and here, I make a bee-line for the safety of the coffee shop. Jewel-toned parrots, white-plumed cockatoos, and colorful rosellas swoop down on patrons in search of bird seed. Not being a bird lover I seek shelter indoors where I’m fairly certain birds will not land on me as they do outside. Back in Melbourne in the afternoon, we walk along the seashore as families enjoy a day at the beach.

Monday, December 24

The baby in Cradle Mountain

When our guide, Lisa, tells us that in Tasmania you can experience four seasons in one day, she is absolutely not kidding. As we depart the port of Bernie and set out for the Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Clair National Park the wind is brisk but skies sunny. By the time we reach the lodge in the pristine wilderness of the National Park for lunch, a cold rain is falling. This turns to sleet and then, on Christmas Eve, to snow! Yes, it is summer in the Southern Hemisphere but the weather continues to surprise. By the time we arrive at Dove Lake, in the shadow of the famous Cradle Mountain (a baby appears to be sleeping in a cradle in the rock formation), the sun begins to poke through the gloom. We do get a glimpse of some native wildlife in the forms of a Wallabe and Wombat.

On the drive back, Lisa points out fields of dusty pink flowers that carpet numerous hillsides. These are poppy’s and Tasmania is the only Australian state that can legally grow the plants which are used for medicinal purposes only. Farmers must be licensed to cultivate the crop and there are strict regulations. By the time we return to Bernie the sun has returned under brilliant blue skies.
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December 25-27 Rock n’ Roll On the High Seas

Fjordland National Park

Sailing from Sydney to Melbourne the captain noted the seas were unusually rough, enough so that we were late getting into port by a couple of hours. Moving across the Pacific from Tasmania, Australia to New Zealand can be rough and this part of the sea is living up to its reputation. Large waves of black water push the ship upward and then we ride them back down, sometimes for a less than soft landing.

On Christmas morning everyone got an early wake-up call as swells caught the ship from the side and pull it into a deep roll, sending dishes, bottles, and glasses careening off shelves. Nothing in our suite was broken, but others weren’t so fortunate. We will definitely have our sea-legs by the end of this cruise.

On the 27th we cruise Fjordland National Park, which normally offers spectacular views of the New Zealand coast. The unseasonable cold and rain continues however; and the dense and low fog obscures much of the landscape. We do view some lovely, cascading waterfalls, and for the second time snow falls.

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Thursday, December 28
Today we are visiting Dunedin, New Zealand under blue skies and sunshine. Our drive along the winding coastline provides spectacular views of Port Chalmers. The verdant terrain is in full bloom, as we climb steep hills to our first destination of Larnach Castle. This is not really a castle, but a private residence that has been restored to its former grandeur. Built by William Larnach over a period of 12 years, the house showcases intricate flowers, birds, and butterflies craved in the oak ceilings of the main foyer and library, exquisite bas relief plaster in the ladies drawing room, and Italian marble throughout. Having acquired great wealth in Australia, Larnach came to New Zealand to expand that fortune and build a retreat for his first wife and six children. His first wife died before the house was completed, and the story of William Larnach’s life has the elements of great drama – familial dysfunction, adultery, betrayal, dark secrets, and much tragedy.

A Yellow-Eyed Penguin

After lunch in the leafy Glenfalloch Woodland Gardens, we travel to the Penguin Place Conservation Reserve, to observe the world’s rarest penguin. The Yellow Eyed Penguin is the most endangered species in the world, with only 4,000 or so remaining. Yellow Eyed Penguins do indeed have yellow eyes and a yellow stripe running from their eyes to crown. There are several reasons for their rarity. First, their natural habitat of dense forest which they require for shelter and privacy is being destroyed; second the Yellow Eyed Penguins are very anti-social birds; and third, in order to reproduce they require privacy and quiet. We are fortunate enough to view at least six of these fascinating creatures, to whom the staff has given names such as Tarzan and Bonnie and Clyde.

We see a female penguin tending to two chicks who are small balls of fuzz and approximately six weeks old, watch another waddle past as though he was a bit tipsy, and observe another pair nesting under a tree. We learn that the penguins make a daily trek from the preserve to the ocean of at least one kilometer in search of food, which is a fair distance. Should two eggs be laid Yellow-Eyed Penguins will attend to both (other penguins will apparently only tend to one), and at around three months the chicks are pushed from the nest and forced to fend for themselves.

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Habitat of the Yellow-Eyed Penguin

On the unspoiled beach we spot a number of sea lions frolicking in the surf or lazily stretched out in the sand. Our guide tells us these are most likely rejected males who have been banished from the nearby colony by more aggressive male sea lions who seek a position of dominance. At right is part of the breath-taking habitat where the Yellow-Eyed Penguins reside.

Driving back towards Dunedin, we’re struck by the dangers of the coastal highway. The road is narrow and many of curves completely blind, and more than once a vehicle approaching from the opposite direction veers quickly back into their lane. Although we can see the ship across the scenic harbor, there is no connecting bridge, so we must drive completely around the waterfront to reach port.

Having been on tour all day, we don’t learn until dinner that Benazir Bhutto, the Pakistani opposition leader was assassinated as she left a political rally. Being nearly a day ahead, the events took place on Thursday, December 27, and are a major topic of conversation.

Saturday, December 29

New Zealand's Southern Alps

We have a full schedule, starting in Christchurch and traveling to the “high country” of the Southern Alps region. On this tour we will see three very different parts of New Zealand – the coastal area, plains, and the high country including some of the Southern Alps. From Christchurch we drive across the vast golden plains of Canterbury towards Woodstock Station, located at the northern boundary of the Waimakariri River Gorge. The first thing we notice is color of the river – pale turquoise. Boarding a Jet Boat, the craft skims the shallow surface at high speed for a thrilling expedition deep into the heart of Waimakariri Gorge.

Changing modes of transportation, we board a large, specially made 4 Wheel Drive Tussock Buggy for a very bumpy ride across the mountainous terrain of Flock Hill Sheep Station, an area inaccessible to the public. There are spectacular views of plunging river gorges, snow-capped mountains, and expansive plains. The all terrain vehicles lurch across the rugged high country and it’s almost like being on an amusement park ride.

At one scenic stop, however; we get more excitement than we signed up for. Not everyone has disembarked from the vehicle and suddenly someone yells, “There goes the car!” With part of our group still inside, the 4 X 4 tussock buggy begins rolling down an incline. The guide jumps inside to pull the brake and everyone catches their breath. After a lovely lunch at Flock Hill Lodge, the drive back down into Christchurch is far less eventful. (Return to Top)

Sunday, December 30

The pristine habitat of Ship Cove

Today we arrive in the picturesque harbor town of Picton, New Zealand. After so many days of clouds and fog, the bright sunshine is most welcome. We have an afternoon boat excursion and we set out for Queen Charlotte Sound and hopefully, sighting of dolphins. While we do not spot any bottlenose dolphins, we are lucky enough to see about a dozen Hector’s dolphins, gliding and jumping alongside the boat. These are one of the world’s smallest dolphins, but another distinction is that Hector’s dolphins are the world’s rarest, due in part to the fact they breed only every four years. Found only along the coast of New Zealand, primarily around the South Island there are only about 3,000-4,000 in existence. We’re especially excited to encounter a female Hector’s dolphin and her newborn calf.

At Ship Cove, we disembark for a brief walking tour of the pristine, native bush. New Zealand has done a tremendous job of preserving this area, and the luxuriant green, tropical paradise appears much as it did when Captain James Cook first sailed into the bay in 1770. Boats drop off “bush walkers” hiking anywhere from a few hours to several days among the fertile landscape. On the voyage back, we spy fat New Zealand Fur Seals napping on top of an enclosed salmon farm, hoping to score an easy meal.

Monday, December 31, 2007

The active volcano at White Island

We are in Wellington today, but unfortunately, Terry isn’t feeling well. Deciding against our all day “Lord of the Rings Tour” into the mountains outside the city, we venture into town once Terry is up to it. Once again our weather is dark, cold, and so very windy! At times walking in the city we are nearly blown over. Because of the approaching New Years Holiday, most shops are already closed. We discover a wonderful Belgian Pub where we grab a light lunch before heading back. Even on the other side of the world, Terry can still watch his beloved Indianapolis Colts face off against the Tennessee Titans. Sure it’s satellite technology that makes this possible, yet it's still odd to see American football in the land of rugby and cricket. Unfortunately, the Colts lose as we get ready to ring in 2008.

Wednesday, January 2, 2008
We’re engaging in “scenic cruising” today around Mercury and White Islands. By the time we reach White Island the clouds have begun to break and it’s at the site of this living, breathing volcano that we see some truly interesting phenomena. The volcano most recently erupted in March of 2000, and to our surprise, as steam and sulfur belches from beneath the ground we can view a tourist group exploring the rocky terrain. As more sunshine washes across the island the volcanic rock shimmers in a mosaic of red, blue, purple, and green. (Return to Top)

Thursday, January 3

Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve in Rotorua

Sailing into the breath-taking Bay of Plenty we are blessed with another sunny day. We start our tour viewing pristine white beaches set against an aquamarine sea – empty now but soon to be crowded later with New Zealanders on holiday. We depart Tauranga and drive through kiwi fruit country to Rotorua. On the way we visit the Agrodome, a fascinating exhibit on New Zealand’s sheep industry. We get to see almost every type of sheep and learn what type of wool each produces, watch a demonstration of sheep shearing, and see how sheep dogs are trained and work. The show is informative and entertaining, as many of the sheep are more interested in eating than participating in any demonstration.

Over lunch we take in a performance of a traditional Maori concert and learn a bit about the culture. The Maori people are nearly a quarter of New Zealand’s population (at 21 percent) and their influence is everywhere. From there we visit Rotorua’s largest geothermal reserve, Te Whakarewarewa. We see everything from spectacular gushing geysers (much like Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park) to literally boiling mud pools. The therapeutic uses of the go-thermal pools are legendary, attracting visitors from the world over.

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Friday, January 4

The famous Hole-in-the-Rock formation

The Bay of Islands catamaran tour takes us through big game fishing waters out to the stunning Cape Brett and lighthouse. Along the way are some magnificent houses, but most of the islands are owned by the government, in an effort by New Zealand to preserve them for future generations.

The famous Hole-in-the-Rock has an opening large enough for the catamaran to cruise through, which is akin to sailing through the eye of a needle due to the tight fit. This natural rock formation off Cap Brett has been etched by the wind and sea over time in the Bay of Islands north of Auckland.

Saturday, January 5
Auckland
We disembark the ship and board a bus for a city tour. This part of Auckland is reminiscent of San Francisco with near-vertical streets that wind their way into exclusive residential areas that offer a panoramic view of the city and surrounding harbor. At one stop in a park high above the city, there is a dormant volcano, its conical remains now covered in green grass.

Downtown is bustling with activity and we head back toward the wharf to make dinner reservations at the well-known Harbourside Restaurant. We’re still on the lookout for gifts and souvenirs, but we want only things actually made here. Dinner is very good, with both of us sampling all types of seafood. The ship is still anchored in port, and will depart for another journey later this evening.

Sunday, January 6
It will be a very long day today as we’ll leave New Zealand on the sixth and arrive home the same day. In the morning we walk over to the Sky City Tower and Hotel for some last-minute shopping. As we cross the plaza, a screaming bungee-jumper falls earthward from the Sky Tower before the bungee cord yanks him to a halt. The temperature is heating up and this will definitely be one of the warmest days of the trip. To our surprise, Australian television presents live coverage of the New Hampshire Presidential Debates prior to the primary on Tuesday.

Home! While the flight wasn’t quite as long, it is wonderful to be home in Minnesota. When I think back over the past three weeks about what we learned, the most important aspect was the attitude of the Southern Hemisphere towards climate change. Everywhere we visited we heard how cities and people are approaching global warming and the steps they’re taking to protect our fragile environment. We met many Australians and New Zealanders on the cruise and at various destinations, and no one sees climate change as a temporary, cyclical phenomena or a ploy by politicians for personal attention and gain. They’ve witnessed the destruction firsthand in the form of soaring skin cancer rates, record breaking draught, wildly fluctuating temperatures, changing eco-systems, and other areas. America would do well to take heed and follow their example.

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Travels Across Europe

We traveled through Western European in 2004 and I kept a detailed journal of our adventures. In the interest of space, that journal and pictures can be accessed by clicking on this link: europeantravels.pdf.. In 2006 my Mom and I cruised up the Eastern seaboard into Canada and while we had a great time, no journal was written this time out.